A video that has garnered 4.6 million views claims that glycolic acid can be the "secret elixir" for treating dandruff. The content creator, @calistatee, on TikTok, claims to have started using the chemical 14 months ago, and within two months, she was free of the bothersome flakes. In other videos, she asserts that glycolic acid exfoliates the scalp, removes dead skin, and dissolves excess oil.
Nicole Petty, a hair care expert at Milk + Blush, stated that the exfoliating properties of glycolic acid may provide a quick fix for the early signs of flaking. However, she warns that this hack is not risk-free. She explained, "The strength of glycolic acid largely depends on the percentage concentration and pH level; the lower the pH, the stronger it is." Most glycolic acids available to shoppers are below 10%, but some online may reach concentrations of up to 70%. According to Petty, "Such strengths should only be used by professionals in a clinical setting to treat severe skin issues, as they can easily cause chemical burns if used by amateurs. Even if you find one with a lower concentration, remember that the scalp has more nerve endings and blood vessels than any other part of your body. You need to be more cautious when applying acids, as excessive exposure can make it painfully sensitive."
Petty continued, "Sensitivity or tenderness on your scalp is a sign that something is not right and could indicate that the products you are using are too harsh." She noted that while you might see some improvement in dandruff, it could return worse because exfoliation can dry out the skin. Furthermore, this could come at the expense of hair strands. Since glycolic acid penetrates the hair shaft, overuse can weaken the hair and make it prone to breakage and thinning. Glycolic acid also strips the scalp of oils, which the body needs to nourish the scalp and promote healthy hair growth. Excessive exfoliation will prevent the scalp from producing necessary oils and can "leave you with brittle and thin hair," according to Petty.
She advised that if you attempt to use glycolic acid, you need to increase your sun protection factor (or SPF) to 50, highlighting, "Glycolic acid is known to increase skin's sensitivity to UV rays." However, many TikTok users applying glycolic acid to their hair may not consider the increased risk of scalp burns. Scalp burns can lead to a range of issues, including increased dryness and flaking, and can result in hair loss.
