In a country ravaged by economic collapse and gradually rising prices of imported goods, Leila Ibrahim finds herself forced to limit her meat consumption to just once a week, substituting it with a diet more focused on grains and vegetables. Leila Ibrahim (44 years old) told Agence France-Presse, "I used to have a slice of meat, chicken, or fish daily, but the prices of these items have become astronomical." She adds, "We have reduced our consumption of red meat to once a week (...) I have become almost vegetarian out of necessity, not choice." The prices of imported red meats have surged more than fivefold, with one kilogram of beef now equating to nearly half the minimum wage set at 675,000 Lebanese pounds, or 33 dollars. Some imported and higher-quality types exceed the entire minimum wage in a country where the local currency has lost more than 90% of its value against the dollar in just two years.
Approximately 80% of the population now lives below the poverty line, while their purchasing power has dramatically decreased and the middle class has significantly shrunk. According to the American University of Beirut Crisis Observatory, the prices of meat have increased by between 440% and 530% by the end of 2021, while chicken prices rose between 328% and 425%. Ibrahim states, "We now put a small amount of meat in stuffed dishes or stews, and even gathering the family around a grilled meat platter on Sundays has become impossible." The price per kilogram of chicken breasts is around 120,000 pounds (five dollars), compared to 300,000 pounds (15 dollars) for beef fillet or between 150,000 and 170,000 pounds for minced meat.
Prices have forced many, like Ibrahim, to change their habits, resulting in a 70% decrease in consultations with nutrition specialists, according to their head, Kristal Bashi. Bashi notes that some people now feel "ashamed to disclose the number of meat meals they consume," indicating that they are increasingly relying on chicken, which is less expensive, while "meat is only mentioned once or twice" a week.
Empty Refrigerators
The head of the supermarket owners, Nabil Fahd, tells AFP that customers "have replaced red meat primarily with chicken and secondarily with grains," particularly after the government lifted subsidies on them along with other goods last year. Sales of red meat in large stores have fallen by about 70%, according to Fahd, who explains that the biggest impact has been felt by small butchers who are the main source for local residents, especially outside major cities. Nancy Awada, part of the meat quality monitoring team in Beirut, states, "The quantity in the butcher's refrigerator (...) is now limited to a quarter or a third of what it used to be."
Along with decreased meat consumption, there has also been a 75% decline in complaints received by Awada and her colleagues. This is not indicative of improved health standards but rather, according to Awada, is due to Lebanese people "reducing their meat consumption, and consequently, their purchases." Customers no longer specify their orders based on quantity but rather based on the money they have.
Electricity Crisis
The situation worsened as Lebanon entered a severe electricity and fuel crisis in the summer of 2021, which increased the cost of food storage and, consequently, food prices. Power outages from the state electricity company exceed 22 hours a day, and due to the removal of subsidies on diesel fuel imports, private generator owners request very high amounts to provide electricity to make up for the state's shortages.
Imad Harrouk, the managing partner of "Feed Distribution" for meat imports, tells AFP, "The situation was acceptable until the first half of 2021, but it changed after August." This shift was due to "rising storage costs amid power outages and reliance on private generators around the clock, which affected the selling prices," he notes.
Decline in Imports
In light of decreased consumption, importers have also reduced the quantities they purchase from abroad. Harrouk explains, "Around 70 containers of refrigerated meat were arriving in Lebanon monthly, but now it's only about 40."
The declining preference for meat has impacted restaurants, which "have lost their driving force represented by the middle class, with only 5% of citizens able to continue the same consumer behavior," according to Tony Rami, head of restaurant owners. However, restaurants in Lebanon offer a variety of meat alternatives, including lentils, chickpeas, and seasoned herbs, allowing customers to choose what suits them according to "prices that fit their budgets."
Hala Jabali, the customer care manager at the Lebanese dish restaurant "Kababji," tells AFP that "the economic crisis and the COVID-19 health crisis have led to a significant drop in sales of all types, especially meat-based dishes."
In one store in Beirut, Charles Nasour (62 years old) approached the butcher and requested a quantity of minced meat for "30,000 pounds," approximately one and a half dollars. This scene repeats daily. Harrouk states, "Even those who can afford it no longer consume as they did before."
