Did it or did it not enter the Lebanese market? Remember the ship loaded with Ukrainian wheat that sparked pointless controversy last April while moored off our shores? We won't revisit the manipulation of sample results or the ambiguity surrounding the investigation into whether the wheat on board was fit for human consumption, nor the concerted efforts at that time to unload its cargo at any cost under the cloak of patronage and interests, which are plentiful. Here, we focus on another aspect of the issue. Many, including bakeries and consumers, have recently complained about a noticeable change in the smell and taste of bread and its derivatives, as well as difficulty in chewing. There’s nothing reassuring about all of this. The price of a loaf of bread stands at 18,000 Lebanese pounds, while a bag of rusks can reach 100,000 pounds in some bakeries, and manakish at 30,000 pounds or more... and the conditions are likely to worsen. Meanwhile, according to confirmed sources, subsidized wheat products from some bakeries are still being exported abroad based on pre-approved licenses from the Ministry of Economy. This is at a time when many countries have enforced "food security" policies, restricting the export of wheat products to protect their citizens amid a global crisis that shows no signs of abating.
The Director of the Consumer Protection Department confirms in media statements that oversight is completely absent; the pricing is chaotic, and municipalities are also unresponsive. "Nidaa Al-Watan" attempted to reach out to several bakeries, both large and medium-sized, to ascertain the type of wheat used in bread production and the reasons behind the change in its taste and smell, but most owners refused to provide any information. However, we will return to this topic later. As for the relevant ministers, led by the Ministers of Agriculture and Industry, avoiding our questions was a common theme when we sought their opinions. What is happening? Who will answer our questions? What is the Lebanese population, young and old, consuming? Who monitors the quality of bread and sets production standards? How can citizens be reassured that the cargo of spoiled wheat from that ship is not being unloaded in the Lebanese market? What proactive measures are being taken to avoid dire consequences? Why is there not a shift from imported wheat to developing local production, including indigenous seeds at the Agricultural Research Institute? Who guarantees the quality of imported wheat, especially since lab tests indicate spoilage in much of it? What about the cancellation of laboratory tests in Lebanon and relying only on tests from the country of origin, which, according to concerned sources, are manipulated within Lebanese territory?
These questions were initially posed by "Nidaa Al-Watan" to the Minister of Economy, Amin Salam, who considered that the Minister of Agriculture, Abbas Al-Hajj Hassan, was the appropriate person to respond. We contacted the latter, but he referred us to his media advisor, who provided a swift written response: "The answer lies within the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Economy." No problem. We followed up with Minister Salam, reiterating our inquiry for two consecutive days... to no avail. Was it evasion of responsibility, a passing of the buck, or a mix of both? You may judge.
The Crisis is Escalating
Returning to the flour crisis, it began after the explosion at the Port of Beirut, which destroyed the grain silos, and has worsened over the past year. The main reasons can be summarized as follows: the state has ceased purchasing wheat from Lebanese farmers and storing it in its reserves for emergencies; the Ministry of Economy and the Sugar Beet and Grain Office have not secured alternative storage for imported wheat, noting that the ministry's warehouses in the Beqaa have become a dump due to neglect and mismanagement; the import of old, substandard wheat through legitimate channels delays delivery and distribution, especially since issuing lab test results for wheat takes 12 to 14 days.
The reasons do not stop there. The Central Bank of Lebanon's refusal to open credits, flour monopolization by some mills alongside wheat distribution monopolization (or poorly managed distribution) by the Grain and Sugar Beet Office, and the exacerbation of the crisis through price hikes, all contributed to fueling the crisis, whether by prior design or neglect for people’s livelihoods, it makes no difference.
Measures Will Not Be Taken
A well-informed source on the flour and wheat file confirmed to "Nidaa Al-Watan" that proactive measures were urgently needed, yet the steps that should have been taken to prevent catastrophe were non-existent. He added, "There was a need to secure alternative storage to the silos, clean the Ministry of Economy's warehouses in the Beqaa and use them for storage instead of letting them be dumping grounds, especially since their area is vast, as well as purchasing large quantities of wheat immediately after the port explosion and ensuring a sufficient reserve for times of crisis. Not to mention buying local production and prohibiting the export of Lebanese wheat."
From the source's perspective, the government should have purchased wheat from Lebanese farmers after the explosion at a price of 1,200 pounds per kilogram, whereas the global price at the time was 3,500 pounds per kilogram. It should also have prohibited the export of any type of wheat, like 70 other countries affected by the global crisis. The source questioned, "Why did we stop supporting local soft and hard wheat cultivation and the production of indigenous seeds by the Agricultural Research Institute, and why did we stop cooperating with mills to incorporate 8 to 10% of hard wheat in the bread-making process, something that was done previously?"
Whether it was a mistake or a sin, many are to blame or involved, regardless of the characterization: the Ministry of Economy, the Ministry of Agriculture, the Ministry of Finance, the Central Bank of Lebanon, the Grain and Sugar Beet Office... in fact, some argue the entire government is at fault. So, could the flour crisis and its depletion from the market be a pressure tactic to introduce spoiled wheat? Another question for the concerned parties, as if the government had responded to the rescue plans proposed by the Agricultural Research Institute in past years, we would today have around 150,000 tons of wheat reserves.
When we ask the same source about the possibility of exiting the crisis, the reply is: "It’s too late. It is very difficult to overcome the problem because there are large quantities being monopolized to benefit from the rise in flour prices. The Central Bank of Lebanon must facilitate the purchase of wheat without delay in its import, and the Ministry of Economy must buy fit and non-spoiled wheat, preventing it from being exported abroad."
Difficult Days Await Us
We sought to approach the topic from the perspective of bakeries, receiving a differing opinion. In a conversation with an administrator at one establishment, he noted that the real crisis began with the central bank’s refusal to transfer credits to rationalize the use of hard currency, negatively affecting the quantities of flour reserves in the market. The port explosion complicated matters further, culminating with the escalation of the Russia-Ukraine war, which saw the price of a ton of wheat soar from 300 to 550 dollars when available.
Regarding demand, the administrator noted that there has been a significant rush to buy bread, with a decline in demand for other products, adding, "A customer used to buy one loaf of bread while other products comprised 80% of his bill; now he only buys a loaf of bread and leaves." In terms of proportions, Arabic bread now accounts for about 70% of bakery sales, a figure likely to rise after the complete cessation of support for extra flour last week, which is used in making flatbread, croissants, manakish, and other items. This cessation is expected to exacerbate price increases, which will rise by at least 8 to 10 times. When we ask who sets prices, the administrator replies, "The Ministry of Economy sets the price for Arabic bread only, while other products are determined by the market, so prices vary from one bakery to another."
How do you ensure the quality of flour? This is another question we posed to the administrator, who explained that "there's ‘spoiled’ wheat within acceptable standards and completely unacceptable wheat. After the crisis, all delayed import contracts were canceled, forcing mills to obtain wheat by any available means. As for us, we do not rely on the ministry's tests; we have our own laboratories to test flour samples and ensure they meet standards. As for other mills, I'm not sure how they handle things."
The taste, smell, and color of the bread have changed... for the worse. Why? "Due to successive crises, the wheat we consume is not of the best quality. We have to accept what's available, and here the role of the Ministry of Economy comes into play to enforce strict regulations and oversight." The operation of bakeries varies based on their capabilities, along with many being unable to perform regular maintenance, as well as the interruption of many raw materials or turning to alternative sources: "We used to buy yeast from Turkey but now buy it from Spain, and when the source changes, the product inevitably changes, affecting its taste and quality as well," the administrator concluded. "The future is difficult, and the challenge is tougher. Were it not for our commitment as a team to our mission, we would not continue hoping to get through this phase in the absence of any state support. We do everything we can to provide the best quality for citizens, but we cannot guarantee what they consume from other mills."
We wanted to go further and explore the potential health implications of the declining quality of bread and its derivatives. We directed our question to several nutrition specialists, public health experts, and gastrointestinal disease specialists. However, they all agreed that there is not enough global data on similar cases to provide a definitive scientific opinion on the matter. Why? Because we apparently represent a unique case in this domain, as they noted. It is no surprise. What countries allow spoiled, or at least substandard, wheat to enter their population's food system on such a scale and with such ease?
