Despite the absence of any controversy regarding the döner recipe, this popular Turkish dish, widely known in Europe, has become the center of a culinary and diplomatic showdown between Ankara and Berlin. The International Döner Federation (Udofed), based in Istanbul, submitted a request in April to the European Commission to protect the döner (or kebab) as a "guaranteed traditional special dish." The Turkish organization outlined the required quantities of each ingredient, the type of meat stacked and shaped on the rotating skewer on the vertical grill, and the spices added. It also specified the thickness of the knife used to slice the tender meat once cooked, similar to Arabic shawarma. The International Döner Federation appeared keen on strictly and precisely defining the terms for using the term "döner."
This move was not well-received in Germany, where the döner is considered a symbol of the Turkish community, mainly consisting of descendants of "Gastarbeiter," the Turkish workers hired by German factories in the 1960s and 1970s. Berlin even claims paternity over one of the most popular versions of the döner, which has the meat placed inside a sandwich. A Turkish worker in Berlin named Kadir Nurman was "the first to put the meat in flatbread in 1972 and invented the popular kebab version in Germany," according to the city's official website. German Agriculture Minister Cem Özdemir, whose parents were Turkish immigrants, emphasized that "kebab is a part of Germany. Everyone should be able to decide for themselves how to prepare and consume it here. There is no need for guidance from Ankara."
The Turkish request has reportedly surprised Berlin, as sources in the ministry noted. European law allows third countries (those outside the EU) to apply for protection and registration of product names within the EU. In Berlin, kebabs have long supplanted German sausages from their throne, and chef Beyrol Yagci expressed concern that the Turkish version only permits beef, lamb, or chicken. Yagci, who owns a restaurant in the Merndam area, explained to AFP, "It's different here; the traditional recipe is based on veal!" He stood in front of two vertical rotating döner spits, one of which used turkey meat, also threatened by the Turkish request. Yagci, in his fifties, protested the Turkish decision regarding döner "which is consumed all over the world, and it is not possible for Turkey to dictate to others what they should do." However, he is willing to change the name of his products if necessary.
The German agriculture ministry believes that the "economic consequences on the German food sector would be enormous" if the "inaccurate" and "contradictory" request from the International Döner Federation is accepted. The German Hotel and Restaurant Association also pointed to the risks of "lack of clarity and transparency" as well as "legal identification difficulties" and "numerous potential disputes." Aref Kilic, 39, who owns a snack bar in western Berlin, commented, "My customers do not want to eat lamb; it has a very unique taste." Kilic believes it's better to change the name than the products, as his customers "know what they are eating; as long as the quality is there, the name does not matter!"
The International Döner Federation justified its request by claiming the Ottoman heritage of the döner, stating that it found its recipe in manuscripts dating back to 1546.
Kebab Diplomacy
Germany represents two-thirds of kebab sales in Europe, valued at 2.4 billion euros annually, according to the EU sector. This dish has become part of diplomatic efforts. In April, German President Frank-Walter Steinmeier took Aref Kilic with him on an official visit to Turkey. Among the luggage they brought was a huge frozen veal kebab skewer, presented during an official reception. The chef, a grandson of a Turkish immigrant, remarked, "In Turkey, we eat döner on a plate; I served it to them Berliner-style, in bread with sauce, and they liked it."
Can the diversity of kebabs prevail? The answer lies with the European Commission, according to Olov Gill, the spokesperson responsible for agriculture at the commission. This week, Germany officially objected to the Turkish request. If this objection is accepted, the parties will have a maximum of six months to reach a settlement before the committee issues its decision.
